Red, black and white form bold designs on tabletops and in geometric wall art while the marble-topped bar and gilded mirrors soften the angles. An airplane propeller in the front window rotates as frequently as the ever-changing menu, which covers breakfast to dinner, chilled borscht to veal tongue and white pizza to quail. [...]
“If you’ve never tried a whole fish before, do it here,” Anitai told my dining companion, and she was right. Rubbed with salt and a few aromatic herbs and spices, the flounder was topped with a pat of butter that lovingly melted into the flaky meat. A squeeze of lemon brought everything together.
821 West Cary Street